How to make a floral beauty balm - Formula Botanica (2024)

In the ever-changing world of skincare, few products offer the versatility of a well-formulated balm. And if you’re a member of the Formula Botanica community, you already know just how amazing balms can be. Not only are they great to use, but they’re also incredibly easy and satisfying to make.

While we’ve featured balms in our posts many times before, the one we have for you today is extra special. Our dedicated team has created an exquisite floral balm just for you, that not only smells but also feels amazing. Unlike other balms which are typically made with beeswax or plant wax, this balm is enriched with luxurious floral waxes. Not only does it give it a naturally exquisite fragrance, eliminating the need for essential oils, but also provides a soft, ointment-like texture. Trust us, you’ll want to get your hands on this balm!

In this article, we cover:

1) How can you use this balm?

2) Key ingredients

3) Our formulation: Flower power beauty balm

4) FAQ/Substitutions

How can you use this balm?

This balm is a multipurpose product that is perfect for addressing all your skincare needs from head to toe. As it does not contain essential oils, it is gentle enough to be applied to the face, lips and the rest of the body. Its soft, semi-solid texture makes it very easy to apply, and the balm will effortlessly melt into the skin without leaving a greasy residue. Here’s how you can use it:

  • Lips: Apply a small amount to your lips to keep them hydrated and soft, especially during harsh weather conditions
  • Brows: Use it to condition your eyebrows and provide a subtle sheen while keeping any stray hairs in place.
  • Cuticles: Massage the balm into your cuticles to soften and nourish them.
  • Elbows & knees: Apply the balm to your elbows and knees, which tend to be drier than other skin areas. It will help moisturise and smooth the skin, leaving it soft and supple.
  • Hands: Use it as a hand balm to keep your hands moisturised and protected from daily activities.

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As you can see, this balm serves as an all-purpose moisturiser, perfect for any part of your body that needs extra nourishment. Its unique formulation ensures it melts effortlessly into the skin, delivering deep hydration and a lasting barrier without the typical heavy, greasy feel of many balms.

Additionally, this balm features a delightful floral scent that pairs beautifully with perfume, adding a subtle fragrance to your skin. Whether you’re at home or on the go, this balm is the perfect companion for maintaining smooth, healthy skin that smells fantastic.

Key ingredients

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Floral waxes

Floral waxes, from flowers like jasmine, rose, frangipani, and mimosa, are luxurious and beneficial for formulations. These waxes contain plant fragrances and beneficial properties. Unlike firmer waxes like beeswax, floral waxes create a semi-solid texture that feels great on the skin. They act as an occlusive, locking in moisture and protecting against environmental stressors, preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Learn more about TEWL below:

Skin barrier 101: Essential guide for natural cosmetic formulators

Camellia Tea Oil

Camellia tea oil has been a prized skincare ingredient for millennia, known for nourishing skin and giving Geishas their dewy complexions. Rich in oleic acid and antioxidants (vitamins A, K, D, and E), it restores skin elasticity and combats UV damage. Its lightweight, non-greasy texture absorbs quickly, making it ideal for all skin types, including oily and sensitive. High in squalene, it keeps skin soft and supports the skin barrier, protecting against environmental damage and premature aging. To learn more about camellia oil, try formulating this cleansing oil, or read more about squalene:

How to make a camellia cleansing oil

The formulator’s guide to squalene and squalane

Ecosilk

Ecosilk, or Isoamyl laurate, is a versatile emollient derived from sugarcane and coconut oil. It reduces the greasy feel of oil-based products and forms a breathable barrier on the skin, protecting against TEWL and environmental stress. Known for its smooth, non-greasy consistency, it gives balms a luxurious feel, allowing for easy application and fast absorption. Its compatibility with many ingredients enhances the balm’s stability and efficacy, ensuring a soft, velvety finish.

Hyaluronic acid pearls

Oil-soluble hyaluronic acid is a fantastic innovation in skincare. Its benefits are similar to its water-soluble counterpart, but it can be used in anhydrous formulas. Available as small meltable pearls, it penetrates deeply, providing long-lasting cellular hydration. Naturally found in connective tissues, hyaluronic acid production decreases with age. This advanced form retains moisture-binding capabilities, plumping the skin and maintaining a healthy glow. Additionally, it strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier, enhancing resilience against environmental stressors and preventing trans-epidermal water loss. Learn more about hyaluronic acid below.

Hydration revolution: the formulator’s guide to hyaluronic acid

Bisabolol

Bisabolol, or Alpha-bisabolol, is a natural anti-inflammatory compound from the candeia tree and can also be found in plants like chamomile. It soothes skin, reduces dryness, and promotes tissue granulation, aiding in wound recovery and reducing redness and blemishes. Rich in antioxidants, it protects against environmental stressors and oxidative damage. Its woody scent adds complexity to the balm without needing additional fragrances.

Our formulation: Flower power beauty balm

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Makes: 50g

Formulation: This is a hot-process formulation

Time: Around 45minutes + 1-12 hours to set the balm

Level: Beginner-friendly

PhaseIngredientsINCIWeight (g)
ASunflower oilHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil15.00
AJojoba oilSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil10.00
AApricot oilPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil9.20
ACamellia tea oilCamellia Oleifera Seed Oil5.00
AJasmine waxJasminum Grandiflorum Flower Cera2.50
AEcosilkIsoamyl Laurate2.50
AMimosa waxAcacia Decurrens Flower Cera2.60
AFrangipani waxPlumeria Rubra Flower Extract1.00
AHyaluronic acid pearlsTriolein, Sodium Hyaluronate0.70
ARose waxRosa Damascena Flower Cera0.50
BBisabololBisabolol0.50
BVitamin ETocopherol0.45
BRose plant pigmentDistarch Phosphate, Anthocyanins, Citric Acid0.05
Total: 50.00

Our Formulation: Flower Power Beauty Balm

Step 1: Prepare workspace

Prepare to formulate by sanitising your utensils and work area, wearing your personal protective equipment such as gloves and an apron and making sure you are set up to follow Good Manufacturing Practice while formulating. Set up your water bath and let it start heating up while you weigh out your ingredients.

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Step 2: Weigh phase A

Set a large glass beaker onto your scales and tare them. Weigh out the camellia tea oil, Ecosilk, hyaluronic acid pearls and the frangipani, rose, mimosa and jasmine wax one by one, taring the scales after each ingredient. This is phase A of your formulation.

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Step 3: Heat phase A ingredients

Place your beaker into your warm water bath and heat the ingredients to around 55C or until fully melted. This should take around 5 minutes for this batch size. Stir the blend slowly with a glass rod or a mini whisk to help speed up the melting process.

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Step 4: Cool down phase A & add phase B

Once everything is fully melted, remove the beaker from the water bath and allow the balm to start cooling down. Once it reaches a soft trace, which should take around 10 minutes (when your stirring utensil leaves a line that bounces back), add in the bisabolol, vitamin E and the Rose plant pigment. This is your heat-sensitive ingredients phase (phase B) so we add these once the blend is below 40C. Stir the blend well to fully combine the ingredients together.

.How to make a floral beauty balm - Formula Botanica (7)

Step 5: Package & label

Transfer the balm to your chosen container. We are using a screw-top glass jar. Label your product and enjoy!

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FAQ/Substitutions

Can I swap the floral waxes?

Yes, you can! If you can’t find floral waxes, then Cera bellina will give you the closest texture but you can also swap for other plant waxes such as rice bran wax and reduce the percentage. You will lose the floral scent but you can add some essential oils if you wish to.

What alternative can I use to the HA pearls?
These are harder to substitute as there are not as many similar ingredients on the market, but you could use any other oil-soluble active ingredients that you want. You could try CO2 extracts, coenzyme Q10 or bakuchiol. They will have different benefits but still create fantastic products.

What can I use instead of Ecosilk?
Ecosilk is a lightweight emollient that functions as a silicone alternative so any other lightweight emollients or silicone alternatives can also be used. You could try olive squalane or simply increase the percentage of camellia oil.

Can I add more pigment?
Yes, you can add more pigment if you want the balm to have a stronger colour or you can omit it if you don’t have access to plant pigments. Just make sure you adjust the other ingredients within the formulation accordingly.

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Suppliers:

Many of the suppliers below ship internationally. We show their country or regional base.

Aromazone (EU).
Aromantic (UK)
Alexmo Cosmetics (EU)
Manske (EU)
Soap Kitchen (UK)
Elemental (EU)
Lotioncrafter (USA)
Essential Wholesale (USA)
Go Native (New Zealand)
Naturally Balmy (UK)
O&3 – The Oil Family (UK, EU)
Soap & More (Canada)

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How to make a floral beauty balm - Formula Botanica (10)

Brooke Medhurst

Brooke Medhurst is a Tutor at Formula Botanica. Find out more about the Formula Botanica Team.

How to make a floral beauty balm - Formula Botanica (2024)
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